And sometimes you have good days.
Today’s climbing session has done wonders for my leading confidence. Something was just right about it. Whereas last week I’d decided that I was going to try really hard to climb well, and pretty much cocked it up, this time I’d just decided to enjoy the climbing.
We warmed up on a 5+, then dropped me straight onto a 6b lead. Now, I’m not entirely sure if I’ve managed to lead a 6b before, but I managed this one. A really nice mix of huge jugs and rather more tricky round slopey holds. My selection of clipping points was much better, although helped along a lot by the nature of the route and my clipping technique seemed to sort its self out. After that, we moved to a more tricky looking 6b+. After a few moments to study it, I was thrown on and just tried to keep going! Again, the clipping point choices seemed to help, along with a little bit of experimenting on which side to lead from. I was very tired by the last 2 clips, but some shouting from the guys below meant I finished it.
After an easier 5 climb, (which I cocked by up unintentially but completely abandoning my plan!) I tried to lead a rather scary looking 6c which defeated me half way up the wall. After about 3 rather dramatic (in looks and noise!) falls, I clipping past the problem point and just climbed passed it. Turns out it’s not that hard a set of moves, just that I needed to figure out how to clip from it. I think this particular move was highlighting something i need to work on: Body placement to prevent my self turning/barndooring away once a hand is taken off the wall.
After that I tried 2nding a blue route, which I think was harder. Again I got half way and gave up after a number of attempts. Far too pumped to make progress on the hard section I think.
So, looking back at it:
– my belaying was significantly improved.
– my clipping was much better
– I *dinged* with what I’ve lead (first 6b+ lead)
– I was much less concerned with being above high above the last clip
– My clipping choices were much smarter.
A good day!
Hopefully i’ll get some climbing in this weekend. (looking like Sunday). I’ll try and spend some time bouldering as I’ve really forgotten how!