Help, I’m melting
I had a really good climbing session yesterday, despite the stifling heat in The Foundry. After a quick warm up, I got on a main leading wall and completed two 6a’s, a 6b and the dalmatians 6c+ I was talking about in my last post. I also worked on a 7a up the main wall but just didn’t have the oomph to get over halfway on it. I need to keep on this wall for a couple more sessions before going back into the Furnace to finish that 7a I’m working on. 
A quick Hi to Kate who has been commenting on my blog and I’ve now properly met. Sorry I didn’t have a proper chat, I was still a bit stunned after managing that 6c+!
Indoor | Comment (0)Not all routes are created equal!
This weekend I was in Derby so went to go check out the newly opened Alter Rock. It’s a nice little centre, in a converted church which increases it’s coolness factor significantly. They have a mix of top rope and leading routes and all the right hand side is bouldering problems.
Now, back to the point of the title. After a warm up and a couple of 6bs, I checked out a top roped 7a, hopped on it, hoping for the best, and on-sighted it. Surprised, I went and found another 7a and tried that one. Again, done without trouble. In the end I on-sighted all the top roped 7a’s (3). Crazy. Inspired by my form, I found the hardest top rope climb in there, a 7b (and consequently one of my challenges for the year), and had a go.
It was hard. Very hard. More like a long bouldering problem with very poor holds, big moves and very little for your feet, but with the exception of the accidental use of a another hold, I did it.
Like I said. Crazy.
I think Alter rock grade a little easier than I’m used to. Either that or the intimidation factor of leading is having a far greater affect on my climbing that I suspected. It is hard to compare though because my local climbing centre doesn’t have any top roped problems graded harder than a 6c+!
In other news, I had a good night at my usual place last weekend. I finally managed to complete the 6c dalmatians lead up the centre of the main well. I did have to sit on the rope twice, again raising my concerns about my arm stamina, but now I’ve managed it, I KNOW I can do it. It’s just practice now….
Indoor | Comment (0)Late update, Cliffhanger and the British Bouldering Championships 2008
I’ve been bad and not updated for ages!
Well, surprise surprise I’m still climbing :). I’m mostly still leading indoors as I still haven’t had the opportunity (or perhaps made the opportunity) to go outside and learn how to trad climb. Still, I’m not too concerned as I’m still really enjoying the indoor stuff.
I’ve definitely cracked that blue 7a now, having replicated it twice more and I’m working on the other leopard spot 7a at the Foundry. I know I can do the whole climb, but it’s a matter of just getting it neat enough to I’m not worn out. Interestingly, I’ve cracked the crux move, but I keep doing something silly and wearing myself out at the move before. As well as the 7a’s I’ve been attempting some of the ‘easier’ 6c/6c+s on that wall. I put easier in quotes as I’m certainly not finding them easy. One of them consists of some very slopey holds and has a move which I’m just not tall enough to do. I’ve watch Ben (who does most of my instruction) do it and he can just reach the next move, but I’m too much of a short arse. I’ve tried jumping for it and can grab it, but it’s very poor and not great for latching on to. Still, it’s definitely highlighting a set of holds and techniques I’m not comfortable with so I’m making a lot of effort to get on that route when I can.
This weekend Jim and I moved out of the Furnace and forced ourselves to climb on the big main wall. I tend to avoid climbing on it as I have real trouble with how steep the wall is. Coward eh? We’ve decided that we should punish ourselves on it more to actually build up the strength to deal with it. It is quite scary how my grade drops on that wall massively; I’m back to 6b if I’m lucky on it! 
Two weekends ago it was the Cliffhanger Outdoor event in Sheffield which also hosted the 2008 UK bouldering championships. I was (p)lucky enough to get right at the front for the Men’s finals so took the opportunity to Qik some of the final problems. Here are two good examples:
This one is a shot of the first 4 problems with climbers on. I think the climbers were (from right to left) Gareth Parry, Stewart Watson, Dave Barrans and Martin Smith
This one was the last climb of the day for the eventual winner Ned Feehally who was the youngest climber in the contest at about 22! Looks like I’m over the hill 
All of the videos I took can be seen on the UK Climbing and Bouldering group on Qik. Go and have a look!
I really enjoyed watching the bouldering although I don’t think I fully appreciated how steep the wall was until I was walking back home past the side of it later on. Being straight on to the wall really hides this perspective!
Bouldering | Comment (0)