Rock Crawler

Airmiles.

I certainly earned a few today. Normal Wednesday climbing session. We warmed up on a couple of 6a’s and did a competition 6a+. That climb was very odd. Lots and lots of holds, but all seeming as if the setter put up an easy climb and then on his way back down the wall, reversed all the holds!

Then on to the previous 6b+ competition climb before having a go on the 7a again. After Jim was nearly halfway up it, we realised that we were leading it, rather than seconding it as we were on Sunday. Eep! Jim managed half of it before having to quit out. Just that little bit too hard! In my attempt I made more of a mess up of the early sections but made one move more than Jim…. for a few seconds before having a rather spectacular fall which saw me swinging right out and crashing back into the wall at speed. I think I yelled! Ouch. I’m nursing a nice bloody graze on my knee from that atm.

After recovering from that, we decided to jump right back in the deep end for the final climb on that Competition 6c+. Jim got to the halfway point but couldn’t hand on to it and I pretty much got to the same place. Fingers just far to tired to pinch the holds hard enough.

We’ll get you next time 6c+! *shakes fist*

So, on with the interesting bit. I’ve discovered a marvellous bit of kit called Qik which allows you to stream videos straight off your mobile. So, I captured a video of myself climbing that 6b+. The idea is for me to look at it and try and work out what silly things I’m doing….

Enjoy:

Another quick update.

Climbed on Sunday. Those 2 competition climbs have now been graded as a 6b+ and a 6c+. Ouch! I did the 6b+ again with no problem (awesome ) but didn’t have another go on the 6c+. I’ll try it on Wednesday.

We did however spend some time trying to second a 7a. After a couple of attempts we were managing to climb it halfway. I can’t even contemplate leading it right now….

Oh yes, I’ve noticed that my big toes are hurting, at the joints. They are tender to touch too. I wonder if those new shoes are a bit too tight?

Quick update.

Did some climbing this evening. Did some bouldering, and I’m getting the mojo back. We watched a couple of experience climbers on some crazy looking route that seemed to require super human powers! One day… one day.

Then on to leading! Warmed up on a 5+, the a 6a, the competition yellow from last time (which is either a 6b or 6b+) and then finally on to a competition route that Jim was trying last time. I feared the worst, but actually had a really good go at it! I took two breaks on it, but did all the moves. TBH, I think that it was a lack of balls, rather than skill that stopped me flashing it! It’s not graded yet, and at the very least is a 6c…. I hope it’s been graded as that by my next sessions… if so, I may well ding at next attempt

Growing Confidence

Normal Wednesday night lesson. Spent a good chunk of it leading again. I feel like I’m getting much more confident at choosing my clipping points, at climbing above the clip and generally just ‘getting on with it’. Managed to lead at 6b+ and was probably my best piece of lead climbing so far, and another new route which must have been at least the same. Cool.

Next climb Friday!

Result!

Did some climbing this morning. About an hour on the bouldering walls, which was good for my confidence as the last time I was bouldering I didn’t achieve very much. This time, I did quite a few climbs, especially after a big group of well muscled lads and ladies turned up and started drilling on the walls. One of them had a ‘uk climbing team’ tshirt on and was suitable impressive. I just watched and tried to copy and made some decent progress.

Second half I did a bunch of lead/seconding and culmulated seconding a 7a, which I completed after coming off once and having a rest near the top. I can do all the moves, I just need to be rested enough and rest at the right points…! YES!

Get in!

Targets

So, targets for the year.

I’ve kind of avoided setting any, but i really should. Right now I’ve top roped a 6c+, and seem to be able to reliably climb a 6c. Leading, the best I’ve managed is a 6b+, which was a real struggle! So I guess its prudent to set separate targets.

Thing is it seems like the jump from a 6 to 7 seems much harder than from 5 to 6. I’m not sure what I’m going to set myself actually seems achievable. Aah.. So what, here we go.

By the end of 2008 I want to be able to:

• Top roped a 7b
• Lead a 7a
• Have done some outdoor climbing

Urk. Done it now. Seems so unachievable, but you never know till you try eh?

A good day!

And sometimes you have good days.

Today's climbing session has done wonders for my leading confidence. Something was just right about it. Whereas last week I'd decided that I was going to try really hard to climb well, and pretty much cocked it up, this time I'd just decided to enjoy the climbing.

We warmed up on a 5+, then dropped me straight onto a 6b lead. Now, I'm not entirely sure if I've managed to lead a 6b before, but I managed this one. A really nice mix of huge jugs and rather more tricky round slopey holds. My selection of clipping points was much better, although helped along a lot by the nature of the route and my clipping technique seemed to sort its self out. After that, we moved to a more tricky looking 6b+. After a few moments to study it, I was thrown on and just tried to keep going! Again, the clipping point choices seemed to help, along with a little bit of experimenting on which side to lead from. I was very tired by the last 2 clips, but some shouting from the guys below meant I finished it.

After an easier 5 climb, (which I cocked by up unintentially but completely abandoning my plan!) I tried to lead a rather scary looking 6c which defeated me half way up the wall. After about 3 rather dramatic (in looks and noise!) falls, I clipping past the problem point and just climbed passed it. Turns out it's not that hard a set of moves, just that I needed to figure out how to clip from it. I think this particular move was highlighting something i need to work on: Body placement to prevent my self turning/barndooring away once a hand is taken off the wall.

After that I tried 2nding a blue route, which I think was harder. Again I got half way and gave up after a number of attempts. Far too pumped to make progress on the hard section I think.

So, looking back at it:
- my belaying was significantly improved.
- my clipping was much better
- I *dinged* with what I've lead (first 6b+ lead)
- I was much less concerned with being above high above the last clip
- My clipping choices were much smarter.

A good day!

Hopefully i'll get some climbing in this weekend. (looking like Sunday). I'll try and spend some time bouldering as I've really forgotten how!

Good days and bad days.

Well, you have good days and bad days. After clearing the 6c+ on Friday, I guess I was due for a lousy one!

I'd been determined to go and work hard tonight. The end result is that I mostly hashed stuff off, not watching my feet, cocking up the moves etc. To be fair, it has been about 3 weeks since I did any leading, but I'm still disappointed.

Oh well!

Will do better next time, probably Friday I think!

I keep forgetting to update.

I keep forgetting to update!

This Wednesday was expensive! I had to replace my shoes (I got 5.10 Gambits, which hurt!) as I'd stripped a nice chunk a of rubber of my Mythos, my harness (just downgraded the size of my womens petzel harness from a L to an M) as my legs had slimmed to smaller that the loops would tighten AND I had to buy new chalk bag as I managed to leave mine somewhere in Birmingham.

So, £122 lighter…. ow. Oh well, I guess that kit HAS lasted me a year. Yes, also it's been my Climbing anniversary recently too: I've been climbing for a year and I'm on 6cs! I'm quite chuffed with that.

I was climbing this evening and after warming up managed a 6c and a 6c+ which is the best top roped grade I've managed. Excellent!